Masked and painted the cabin interior with the PU paint. The result does show I am no painter, but it's good enough for me, and looks cool satin gray and solid PU'ish. The info for the paint is here.
Saturday, January 31, 2015
Wednesday, January 28, 2015
Landing gear painted and Airward
Painted the landing gear. It looks kind of brownish in the picture, but it's light gray in reality (RAL 7035)
Received the stuff from AirWard. I ordered a cabin heating kit, a necessity here in Norway. A cabin fuel shut off handle kit. The fuel shut off valve is not accessible from a strapped in position. With this kit from AirWard I will have a nice red handle positioned on the panel. Tow down bolts and cowling retainers of the "click on" type. The kits looks very nice and very complete with all nuts and bolts and wires and tubes etc included.
Received the stuff from AirWard. I ordered a cabin heating kit, a necessity here in Norway. A cabin fuel shut off handle kit. The fuel shut off valve is not accessible from a strapped in position. With this kit from AirWard I will have a nice red handle positioned on the panel. Tow down bolts and cowling retainers of the "click on" type. The kits looks very nice and very complete with all nuts and bolts and wires and tubes etc included.
Monday, January 26, 2015
Landing gear
Inserted the bolts in the landing gear, then I primed the gear. Widened the bolt holes with a rotating sanding wheel, that coincidentally fitted 100%, and inserted the bolts from the freezer. Should be a very tight fit. Going with gray PU on that one also. Riveted/bolted on the main brake cylinder. Also bolted and riveted on the main gear angle spar thing.
Thursday, January 22, 2015
Cockpit paint
Got the rattle can polyurethane today, and started painting. The painting was a bit more difficult than the etch primer, but the result was excellent (keeping a blind eye to the poor paint job by the painter). I tried it first on a piece that I had primed with the Acid #8 etch primer and also the "3 in 1" (polyester thing). Acid #8 + PU works just great, but the "3 in 1" and PU does not. The PU dissolves the 3 in 1 leaving a "sludge" underneath the hardening PU. I will see tomorrow if it cures overnight.
The PU rattle cans is a rather strange stuff. The PU itself comes from Nordic Paint. This is mixed into a pre-mixed rattle can "curing soup" from Voss Chemie. This mixing also involves coloring. This mixing and shipping is done by Nordbond, and the cans are shipped the same day. The cans must be used within a month. The colors are RAL colors. I ordered RAL 7035 (light gray) with a satin finish (gloss 50, whatever that is supposed to mean, I thing "full gloss" is 95 or something). With this system, you get the easy of use and practicality of rattle can + the "industrial strength" and finish of PU, and it works great. I'm really satisfied with this one (even though my painting skills could be better).
I painted the seat, and the visible part of the main spar.
I also found out another thing while testing how different paint holds up against chemicals. The ordinary household "Quick spray" is remarkable. It is a 1K "alkyd" enamel paint available in rattle cans as "Quick Spray" and in tin cans as "Bengalack". It has been around as long as I can remember, probably much longer. Let it cure for a couple of weeks, and it holds up against everything (gasoline, acetone, ethanol, thinners). The same goes for the transparent Quick Spray. It sticks to everything too. It doesn't become as hard as PU though, but a thin layer of primer + a top coat of semi gloss Quick transparent looks great, and will last for ages. This is probably why it has been around for so long.
The PU rattle cans is a rather strange stuff. The PU itself comes from Nordic Paint. This is mixed into a pre-mixed rattle can "curing soup" from Voss Chemie. This mixing also involves coloring. This mixing and shipping is done by Nordbond, and the cans are shipped the same day. The cans must be used within a month. The colors are RAL colors. I ordered RAL 7035 (light gray) with a satin finish (gloss 50, whatever that is supposed to mean, I thing "full gloss" is 95 or something). With this system, you get the easy of use and practicality of rattle can + the "industrial strength" and finish of PU, and it works great. I'm really satisfied with this one (even though my painting skills could be better).
I painted the seat, and the visible part of the main spar.
I also found out another thing while testing how different paint holds up against chemicals. The ordinary household "Quick spray" is remarkable. It is a 1K "alkyd" enamel paint available in rattle cans as "Quick Spray" and in tin cans as "Bengalack". It has been around as long as I can remember, probably much longer. Let it cure for a couple of weeks, and it holds up against everything (gasoline, acetone, ethanol, thinners). The same goes for the transparent Quick Spray. It sticks to everything too. It doesn't become as hard as PU though, but a thin layer of primer + a top coat of semi gloss Quick transparent looks great, and will last for ages. This is probably why it has been around for so long.
Tuesday, January 20, 2015
Engine painted, and tail wheel solved
Painted the engine "barbecue black" with real barbecue paint. It came out really cool even though the black is almost stealthy black. I will paint the cylinders with the same paint.
On Sonexbuilders I got the all too obvious solution to the tail wheel problem. Turn the brackets around! (why didn't I think about that??) This will move the bolt holes about 10 mm up, which is just fine. With the brackets turned around, the angle also became right, according to drawings.
On Sonexbuilders I got the all too obvious solution to the tail wheel problem. Turn the brackets around! (why didn't I think about that??) This will move the bolt holes about 10 mm up, which is just fine. With the brackets turned around, the angle also became right, according to drawings.
Tail wheel
The tail wheel mount need some modifications to get the bolt in there. The space is too small and the bolt is too far down and too long. I don't want to cut too much into the main structure. Seems there are two options.
1. Make a bolt with thread on both sides. This will be able to slip in from the side more easily
2. Make new angles with the hole further up.
I have to think some more about this, and ask what others have done. Maybe there are some much better solutions out there.
The engine paint. I have no idea what kind of paint stick on magnesium. All the paint available are made for cast iron, aluminium at most. Nothing really stick on aluminium without at least an etch primer, and then the primer also have to be heat resistant. VW did not paint the engines. "Barbecue Black" from the local home ware store therefore seems to be the best option after all.
1. Make a bolt with thread on both sides. This will be able to slip in from the side more easily
2. Make new angles with the hole further up.
I have to think some more about this, and ask what others have done. Maybe there are some much better solutions out there.
The engine paint. I have no idea what kind of paint stick on magnesium. All the paint available are made for cast iron, aluminium at most. Nothing really stick on aluminium without at least an etch primer, and then the primer also have to be heat resistant. VW did not paint the engines. "Barbecue Black" from the local home ware store therefore seems to be the best option after all.
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